5/1/17
Upon learning of the sudden and tragic demise of Schaller’s, Chicago’s oldest
continually operating bar/restaurant and one of my favorite places in town, I
was, first, stunned and, second, prompted to recall an old song, an old post,
and nearly a lifetime of memories.
The song is “Daley’s
Gone” by Steve Goodman; it’s one
of Mr. Goodman’s best and I encourage you to google it or even to buy it on
I-tunes or whatever medium you use to purchase music. Why did Schaller’s demise remind me of that
all but forgotten Goodman classic?
First, the sadness that permeated that song is close to the sadness that
permeates yours truly, and most of the Quinn household, on learning of the
demise of that great old neighborhood place.
Second, Richard J. Daley (aka
Richard I or the real Mayor Daley) lived a few blocks
from the place and our path from Schaller’s to whatever they call Comiskey Park nowadays ran right past
the old bungalow on 35th and Lowe.
Furthermore, Schaller’s sits (or, I guess now, sat) directly across from
the 11th Ward Regular
Democratic Organization headquarters, where the late great Mayor Daley
plied his trade for so many years. Whether
Mr. Daley, or any of his progeny, ate or drank at Schaller’s I don’t know, but I’d
be surprised if he, or they, didn’t.
The
post if which I am reminded is DINING OUT SHOULD MEAN NEVER HAVING TO SAY YOU’RE HUNGRY: AN INADVERTENT REVIEW OF KEN’SON WESTERN AVENUE, which I wrote in November, 2015. I mentioned Schaller’s only in passing in
that piece, comparing it favorably to Ken’s,
a similar restaurant in my old neighborhood, Beverly, broadly defined, a
neighborhood doubtless known by the denizens of Bridgeport, where Schaller’s was (sigh) located, as “that other
Irish neighborhood.” But I
digress. What I didn’t explicitly say
in that post is that Ken’s, a decent enough place, simply doesn’t compare to
Schaller’s for prices and character and, in most cases, for food.
Schaller’s
is one of those places that I’ve gone to often enough but not often
enough. Over the last twenty or so
years, our visits to Schaller’s have been limited to pre-Sox game dinners. Not only
is the food good and the company better, but one of the perks offered by
Schaller’s was free parking for the Sox game for those who ate at the place
before the game. Those who know yours
truly well can imagine my dismay at now having to pay to park for a Sox game,
even at the discounted $10 rate charged in neighborhood lots. One supposes it could be worse; I could have
to pay to park at a Cubs game, but,
again, I digress.
Despite
going so rarely over the last few years, I can remember both my first visit to
Schaller’s and my last visit to Schaller’s.
The first was with my dad when I was eight years old after, ironically,
a Bears game. We drove straight down Halsted Street (My
dad “knew some people” and hence we were able to park at the police station on
the corner of Halsted and Addison for Bears games, the only occasion at the
time that would bring us to Wrigley
Field.) the 73 blocks from the station to Schaller’s and enjoyed a meal of
butt steak, which has long been a favorite of the original “real food” lovers
who frequent places like Schaller’s and the aforementioned Ken’s. The formal name of Schaller’s is “Schaller’s Pump.” When we got home after eating there, my eight-year-old
self proudly told my mom that dad took us to “The Pump Room” for dinner after the game. My mom was appalled and retorted with
something like “Dick, you took Mark and Dick to the Pump Room? You never take me to the Pump Room!” As many of you know, the recently closed
Pump Room was, at the time, probably the swankiest restaurant in Chicago and
thus not a place frequented by the Quinns.
My dad tried to calm the situation by explaining “No, Gen…we went to
Pump, Schaller’s Pump, not The Pump Room.”
Whether my mom believed him or not I don’t know, but my dad thought my
confusion about the similar names of eating establishments was pretty funny,
especially given the contrast in the atmospheres of the two similarly named
places. Many years later, when I was
making some good money, I took my parents out to the Pump Room and related that
story to them. Neither remembered it,
but at least my dad thought it was more than mildly amusing. Neither one liked the Pump Room much,
though; they thought it was too much money for what you got (The apple
apparently doesn’t fall far from the tree.) and I could tell that they, and my
dad especially, thought their hot shot son was getting a little too fancy. They were, of course, right; we should have
gone to Schaller’s four or five times for the same money. A few years later, when I was dating the
woman who would later become my wife, I took her to Pump Room. While she liked it, her reaction was
somewhat similar to that of my parents.
It was probably at about that time that I was convinced that I had to
marry this woman, which turned out to be the best decision I’ve ever made. She now is a big fan of Schaller’s; man, do
I love this woman! But I digress.
My
last visit to Schaller’s, appropriately, was with my son, a young man of whom
my Dad was especially proud. Mark, Jr.,
and I have made a practice of going to a Sox game every year and dropping some
serious coin (about what one would spend for the cheap seats at Wrigley) for some really good seats at
whatever they are calling Comiskey Park at the time. One time we were sitting within a few rows of
the owner of the visiting Houston Astros
and those types don’t sit in the bleachers. Another time we were sitting right next to
the Sox dugout, about where Mayor Daley used to sit at Comiskey Park, which is
what they called Comiskey Park at the time, and he had the best seats in the
house. The point is that the seats Mark
and I get are terrific seats by any measure.
We made a habit of going to
Schaller’s before these games in order to get a great meal at a great price among
great people and to take advantage of the free parking perk. So we found ourselves there last summer,
Mark enjoying the butt steak dinner and I diverting to the corned beef and
cabbage special, which, as you might guess, was outstanding. Our waitress was fantastic, as usual, very
congenial and helpful and referred to us as “gentlemen,” as in “What will you
have tonight, gentlemen?,” “Are you ready for the check, gentlemen?”, etc.
The
particular game we saw that evening was rain delayed…very rain delayed. While I would have left when it was clear
that restarting the game was hopeless, Mark insisted on staying. We had a great time exploring every nook and
cranny of whatever they called Comiskey Park at the time. I have to admit it is an impressive
place. By the time they officially called
the game, it was after midnight and Mark and I were among the, oh, dozen or so
people remaining at the park. Having
been forced to leave, we made our way west on 35th Street in the now
waning rain. Proceeding south on Lowe,
we walked west on 37th. Who
did we meet at the corner of 37th and Lowe? The waitress who had waited on us six or so
hours ago and now greeted us with “Gentlemen, you too are real fans!” We offered her a ride to wherever she was
going, but she lived only a block away, closer to home than the three blocks to
the Schaller’s parking lot. Not having
eaten for such a long period of time, we stopped, for the first time, at Johnny O’s hot dog stand on 35th
and Morgan and picked up a few dogs for the ride home. We loved the dogs, but didn’t think that the
admittedly terrific Johnny O’s might have to replace Schaller’s as our pre-Sox
game dining spot.
There
are other memories of Schaller’s, like
- The
time, when Mark got up to use the bathroom, that our waitress made a special
point of coming over to the table in his absence to tell my wife and me what a
polite, respectful young man we had raised.
You NEVER forget things like that.
- The
occasion on which, on our walk from Schaller’s to the game on a beautiful
summer evening when I was regaling our daughters with tales from Chicago’s
political history as we walked north on Lowe, approaching the Daley bungalow,
our girls commented that the neighborhood was “cute,” a term that I had never
heard used to describe Bridgeport in my many years of acquaintance with this
neighborhood. I could not wait to call
one of my old Bridgeport buddies the next day and tell him “Hey, Pat, my girls
think your old neighborhood is cute!”
He was not amused. But things
change.
Things
indeed do change. It looks like
Schaller’s will never re-open. The
papers talk about the property tax problems the place faces after Jack Schaller died and hence was no
longer able to claim senior citizen and homestead exemptions on the bar and the
apartment upstairs in which he lived, a practice that may have been
questionable even when he was alive. But
the tax numbers that the papers talk about are not all that huge, though no one
knows the magnitude of such problems, if they exist at all. One could also imagine dark conspiracies
involving Rahm Emanuel’s dislike for
Bridgeport, and places like it, and
his vision of a “new Chicago” in which old neighborhood places like Schaller’s
are replaced by trendy “night clubs” with big covers, fancy drinks, and food
best characterized by small portions and inedible “organic” ingredients. But
such flights of fancy are a little too out there even for the likes of yours
truly.
No,
one suspects the demise of Schaller’s has more to do with the inevitable
generational change in family owned places like Schaller’s and the place’s real
estate value in a rapidly “gentrifying” Bridgeport than with anything else. (I’ve
always thought that only formerly run down, poor, and/or crime-ridden
neighborhoods gentrified. Bridgeport
never met any of those criteria, so how could it gentrify? I suppose when one looks at things from the Chicago media’s perspective (i.e.,
never venture south of Congress unless you’re headed to Hyde Park or to Midway
to catch a flight to one of the coasts), any neighborhood on the south side
needs gentrifying, but I, again, digress.
At least I do so parenthetically this time.) Perhaps we’ll never know. But why Schaller’s closed is not as
important as that Schaller’s closed.
And the shame of that event transcends Schaller’s. The city of Chicago, as we once knew it and
as embodied by neighborhood saloons like Schaller’s, is dying. Some
people call this progress; they prefer the trendiest, “just gotta go there” chi-chi
establishments, or embarrassments, that now characterize the city. And some people consider a tofu dog with
arugula trimmings to be the new Chicago dog.
O tempora, o mores!
LATE
NOTE:
Between
my writing the first draft of this piece and editing it for publication, my
wife and I listened to the local ABC evening news. On a report on the closing of Schaller’s,
anchor Kathy Brock referred to
Schaller’s as “…the legendary south side dive bar…” (Emphasis mine) Dive bar? Dive
bar! I’ve been in plenty of dive bars over the years,
and Schaller’s was decidedly NOT one of them! I rest my case on the Chicago media.